Heavenly Bodies At The Met Cloisters.

July 30, 2018 § Leave a comment

I finally made it to see the rest of the Met Fashion exhibit Heavenly Bodies at The Met Cloisters today and wanted to make sure I posted some of the pictures right away before I get too busy again and forget. It doesn’t disappoint. Again this is one of the most beautiful fashion exhibits I’ve ever seen at The Met. The scope and sheer magnitude of it is incredible. The exhibit like the one at the 5th Avenue Met is infused throughout with music creating a cinematic mood.  Here is just a small sampling of what’s there. IMG_8002IMG_8052

Heavenly Bodies Part 1.

May 20, 2018 § 1 Comment

HEAVENLY BODIES, FASHION AND THE CATHOLIC IMAGINATION | The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

This is by far one of the most beautiful exhibits I’ve experienced at The Met. It’s at 2 sites. The Fifth Avenue Museum and The Cloisters. I haven’t had a chance to visit the Cloisters yet, hence the Part 1. I’ll post back with photos from The Cloisters at a later date. I love how the fashion is blended with the artwork. The music is pretty fantastic too. If I had to choose a favorite piece it would have to be the black silk taffeta dress by Alexander Mcqueen. This is just a very small sampling.  Be sure to click on the videos to get more of a feel for the exhibit.

Alexander Mcqueen

IMG_1364

Versace

Food For Thought.

February 12, 2015 § Leave a comment

Fashion’s Racial Divide – NYT, Feb. 12th, 2015

image

Damon Winter/The New York Times

The Man in the Gray Flannel Suit

July 16, 2014 § 8 Comments

This summer I find myself in midtown quite a bit. When I’m walking around Grand Central I’m reminded of The Man in The Gray Flannel Suit. If you’re not familiar with the film, it’s based on the novel by Sloan Wilson and written in 1955. The film starred Gregory Peck and Jennifer Jones.  Read the full synopsis here.

IMG_8999

mitgfs3

IMG_9043

IMG_8998

IMG_9051

IMG_9017

IMG_9010

The_Man_in_the_Gray_Flannel_Suit_-_1955_-_poster

BURBERRY, Madison Avenue

July 11, 2014 § Leave a comment

IMG_8840

IMG_8821

IMG_8825

IMG_8837

 

 

The Back Story

February 7, 2014 § 4 Comments

SHOE PATENT 7-13-37

Some of you asked me for more information on my grandfather.  Here are the events in his life leading up to the first company he helped start,  Sigman and Cohen Women’s Shoe Manufacturers of Brooklyn. The quotes are from tape-recorded conversations I made as a child when he would come over every Sunday for dinner.

Still Life - B. Benjamin

I tried to keep it as brief as possible. I’ve always been in awe of his journey from an orphan to a successful American shoe manufacturer. I only knew him as a frail old man, with a tenacious spirit who painted into his 90’s and told his grandchildren that he knew if he learned how to make shoes he would always have a job.

When I was about 8 years old my father decided to go to Belfast.  Things were bad.  Mother had a lot of children by that time. When I was 8 there must have been 6 or 7 kids. See? I was the oldest. There was a baby boy Harry. He died in Belfast as a baby. Then Aunt Dora was born in Belfast. We lived in Belfast almost 4 years. So I was 12  years old by the time we came back to London. My father got sick and the Dr. advised him to get to a dry climate. Northern Ireland is a very damp country. It could rain for 30, 40 days straight.  That’s why it’s called the emerald isle. Cause its green, because it’s got so much rain.

The doctor told his father to go to South Africa, but they couldn’t afford to and returned to The East End of London. His mother, 32 years old was pregnant again and died in childbirth when the baby was only an hour old.  His father 36, died 10 weeks later.

Sam, Dinah and Benjamin Benjamin

Happier times. My grandfather with his parents Sam and Dinah Benjamin

Then we were gradually broken up. Those that could help us didn’t want to and those that wanted to couldn’t. That’s the way it went. The Jewish Board of Guardians was a charitable organization run by wealthy Jews in England. They paid for the funeral for my mother and father and later when my brother died – he was 14 in the orphan home, they paid for that, but you couldn’t put up a tombstone unless you paid that money back.  After I was here in this country, first time I went back to London, after I was here 18 or 19 years, went back to pay them off.  Give them the money they spent for the funeral and put tombstones up for the three of them.

Joseph Benjamin (he died in the orphanage)

Joseph Benjamin died in the orphanage

The Jewish Board of Guardian’s they take boys when they’re 14 and leave school and apprentice them to a trade.  So they did that with me and the first place they apprenticed me, they wanted me to go to a cabinetmakers shop where they made furniture. I didn’t like it so much because I had to get up at 5 in the morning.  I lived out in the suburbs.  I had to go all the way down to London to the East End of London and found it was too much and asked them to get me something else, so they put me in a shoe factory. I didn’t mind it. It was also far and awkward to get to, but there I apprenticed for 5 years. The second year I was supposed to go to another department, see?  They didn’t want to put me there. They wanted me to stay in the department I was in cause I was doing good there, satisfying them, getting the work done properly. There were 12 apprentices, it was a big plant. I said no, I’ve got an apprenticeship. I’ve got my Indentures, which is the papers that you sign to work there for 5 years and I’m suppose to go and learn this and you wouldn’t teach me that, so I left. I found myself a job in some other factory, but they forced me back.  They made me come back on the promise you live up to my agreement.  Did they live up to your agreement?  Yes they did.

Letter of Reference 1913 - Version 2

I had an old school chum and he was talking to the superintendent of a factory in Harrisburg Pennsylvania and he sent me a letter to come over there.  That’s how I come to go.

Ellis Island Ticket

Ellis Island Ticket

I had my struggles the first 2 years, see? Until your grandmother was pregnant with your father. Then she says we gotta settle down because I was going from one town to the other.  As soon as I had a job, earned some money, saved up a little, I spent it on railroad fare.

IMG_6105

Bronx, NY

You can’t travel around with a baby coming. We settled first in the Bronx.  We had this one room furnished apartment and I found myself a good job cutting pocket books. Bags. Never did it before in my life, but it was good money. Made more money then I could in the shoe factories. There were seasons in those days for every trade and when the seasons finished the shoe factory started to get in business. I saw an ad for a job in Brooklyn.  I went over to Brooklyn to apply for the a job in this factory and I got the job.  I liked it so I said to grandmother, I says lets move to Brooklyn. I was still Penny Pinching. I didn’t have any money. I had no money to even buy a baby carriage to take him out in the air.   There was a little park near us then and we use to carry him in our arms over to the park and we use to sit on a bench so as he had fresh air or make a bed for him on the bench.  Your Dad.

My grandmother Rose Benjamin who I never met with my dad.

My grandmother Rose Benjamin who I never met with my dad.

 

All I was trying to do was striving all the time to get enough, earn enough money to get the necessities of life.

Publicity photo

Then I had the opportunity to get a job in another factory where the owner was an Englishman and I got the job there cutting shoes and wasn’t working there very long when the owner sent up with his secretary a note that I should come to his house.  He wanted to know what my experience was in the trade.  He wasn’t satisfied with the Forman of that dept.  He told me he wanted to make me foreman there, see?

New York from tower of Brooklyn Bridge

Courtesy of the Library of Congress: New York from tower of Brooklyn Bridge, Date Created/Published: [between 1907 and 1915] Call Number: LOT 7163 [item] [P&P]

He says to start I’m going to make you assistant foreman. He wanted to know whether I could make patterns and I said yes.  I learned all that in England. How to make patterns, how to draw sketches and things like that. So he says I let you know whenever I’m ready. Well it took about 4 or 5 months before I heard another word from him. Then they called me down and told me they were going to make me assistant foreman.  Well the foreman didn’t like it, so in a few months he quit and I became Forman.

_

_

I was very friendly with the other foreman.  There was one foreman who was in the packing room, he and another foreman in a factory 2 blocks down the street (DeKalb Ave.) wanted to go into business with this other man named Cohen. He was a foreman in charge of Heeling in that particular factory where he was working in.  He wanted to know whether I’d help them pick out the last and make their first patterns for them.

Dekalb Avenue - Former Shoe Factory

Dekalb Avenue – Former Shoe Factory

Click here to see the converted prewar shoe factory now condos.

I knew all about the layout of the factory.  So I said all right.  I’ll help you out.  I says I’ll make your patterns.  I’ll even cut your samples.  At that time they were making boots.  9 – 10 inch boots, some with buttons, some laced and it was quite a job to do. You have to draft the last first. See you’ve got so many different style last, high heels, or low heels and the pattern has to be made differently from a lower heeled last than a higher heel, and I did all that. I even cut the shoes. I said you get them stitched and fitted somewhere else. I can’t do no more. They rented a small loft. Enough to make 200 pair of shoes a day. I went over there and I laid out the plan for them. Showed em where to lay it out. What to do. What machines go here and what machines to buy there and said you’re on your own. They somehow got lost.  They didn’t know what do.  Would I come in with them? I said I’ve got no money to go into business.  They said we’ll give you some stock and well lend you some money to buy more stock when you come in with us. So I figured it out and finally decided to do it. Chance to break out. I told Mr. Albert I was leaving him. He says I don’t want to stop you from getting on he says but you got a tough road ahead of you, see to build up a factory in these days. I said you took a chance, I said I want a take a chance, and I did.

DKNY Fall 2013

DKNY Fall 2013

…and  some things never change.   While walking through Bloomingdales recently I spotted this DKNY boot reminiscent of the boots my grandfather made.

I also remember my dad had kept a sample of a boot from the early 1900’s in his hone office. I wonder now if that had been one of the original boots my grandfather had designed.

The Shoe Box

February 1, 2014 § Leave a comment

Vintage Family Shoe Store

Vintage Family Shoe Store

Dale’s Shoes was a shoe store that belonged to a friend of my dad’s named Paulette Paul. My sisters and I called her Aunt Paulette. I remember her father had owned a pharmacy in Manhattan or Brooklyn before she moved to Florida. When I saw this post on Reddit by Reddit member Oktober75  about a family shoe store that had been closed for 40 years, it reminded me of Aunt Paulette. Not her store, but the lost shoes. Her store was bright and colorful and we were always greeted by her cocker spaniel. I remember the large windows that shined sunlight into it. She mostly sold Pappagallo shoes, but also dresses, jewelry and handbags. The store was in Tampa and for a child the ride from St. Petersburg was torture, so arriving at her shop was a treat for us. My older sister remembered a pizza restaurant next door that sold groovy lollipops and my mother said we would get our Mary Jane’s there. When I was a teenager and Aunt Paulette needed to clean out her storeroom she gave me at least 6 or 7 shoe boxes of Pappagallo paisley pumps and a pair of Pappagallo red loafers.

_

il_570xN.496384277_r5m0

  _
Retro Inspired – Orla Kiely Clarks

Retro inspired Clarks - Orla Milly

0CLKMIL205-Red_&_Cream-2

_

1001_

Luigino Rossi

January 23, 2014 § 2 Comments

Copyright All rights reserved by studio venezia http://www.flickr.com/photos/hstudio_venezia/

Copyright All rights reserved by studio venezia

childhood memories

Luigino Rossi  and my father Arthur Benjamin worked together in the (1970’s).  Mr. Rossi told my Dad about finding a hidden room behind a wall in his home in Italy filled with paintings and one looked just like me. I’ll never know if it was true, but what a fun story to tell a child.  I never forgot it.

Museo Rossimoda della calzatura__

__

Ringling Museum of Art – Sarasota, Florida

Boston

January 22, 2014 § Leave a comment

Library of Congress: Reproduction Number: LC-USZ62-131972 (b&w film copy neg.)

Boston: Library of Congress:
Reproduction Number: LC-USZ62-131972 (b&w film copy neg.)

__

In England you always heard Boston is the Shoe Center of this country, so I was anxious to get to Boston, see what it was like. I kept finding jobs and the union wouldn’t give me a permit to go to work. That’s why I came back to New York.  – Ben Benjamin

__

Pattern__

Before he left Schwartz & Benjamin my grandfather went back to Boston.

Shoe Factories Lynn Mass Library of Congress: LOT 2913 (F) [P&P]

Shoe Factories Lynn Mass
Library of Congress: LOT 2913 (F) [P&P]

A couple years before I got out, before we moved into New York City. We talked it over, Ben Schwartz & I, about starting a factory out of town instead of NY. See? It was getting impossible to lead the business there because of the unions and their demands.  Prices kept on going up higher, and new machinery was coming into place. So people out of town who made cheap shoes could make better shoes than what they were making with the new equipment. So we went. We went to Lynn, and Boston and St. Louis, Cincinnati. We went all around. When I came back we sat down and talked it over. I says Ben, after seeing all the towns, I think Lynn is the best place of the lot. A lot of the shoe factories have went out of business there. Not good shoemakers like we’ve got in New York, but they could be trained–taught to make better shoes. After I got out, Ben Schwartz did finally go to Lynn.  – Ben Benjamin

Dora Benjamin

Dora Benjamin (sister)

Lynn Museum


Shoe Patent

January 19, 2014 § Leave a comment

_________________SHOE PATENT 11-26-35-cropped

__________________\____

SHOE PATENT 1-3-39 - cropped

_______________

Then I created a little pump with a certain bow on it…and that’s what kept us busy…Well that little shoe, forget now what the name… we had a name for it…And I kept on creating new things and I’ll never forget one shoe I created. A step in, kind of an open throat, I remember crossing the instep…there was a piece. There was no, no going there but it had a square on one tag and I got a hold of some buttons, brass buttons, some with pearl, with a loop in the back see? And uh…I put 4 buttonholes and I made the leather different on one side to two of the other. I had been sick. I went down to Bermuda for a few days just when the style show was on. Ben Schwartz cabled me in Bermuda. I forget the name of that shoe now. He says the shoes gotten over big, very big. Now I had patented that design but first thing I knew everyone started to copy it. All Manufacturers. But we did a lot with it. You had to sue them and we didn’t have that much money. We were a small company, see? Cost you and dragged on for 2 or 3 years. By the time the trial comes up the style is all gone, over. Wasn’t worth it. After a while I stopped patenting styles. It didn’t pay.   – Ben Benjamin

______________

Grandpa
_______________________________________________________
_________________________

Grandpa & Me

Where Am I?

You are currently browsing entries tagged with Fashion at Women's Footwear in America.